We landed in Cusco at approximately 7 AM. I started feeling light-headed at 7:02.
Cusco is over 11,000 feet above sea level. That's pretty damn high. At this altitude, the air is quite thin. It's so thin, that altitude sickness is common for Gringos on their first day in the Incan capitol. I was alarmed.
Peru Treks requires us to spend at least two days in Cusco to prepare ourselves for the Inca Trail. Our first day was all about exploring. And Cusco is a wonderful place to explore. The streets are narrow and windy. When you think no vehicle could possible fit, along zips a taxi. Quite a feat.
Most roads in Cusco lead to the Plaza de Armas, the main square. You can tell you're in the Plaza by the gigantic Cathedral and neighboring Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus. Numerous markets and restaurants surround the plaza and neighboring streets, complete with locals trying to push their wares on you This was very intimidating for me, as I usually like to be left alone. I had to say "Gracias, no" many times. I had to, lest I run out of soles on the first day.
What I was looking for the whole day to purchase was a chullo.
Chullos are those super cool Peruvian knitted hats, made from alpaca. In my hastiness, I had forgotten to pack a knit hat for the hike, and I heard it can get around 30 degrees at night. I needed a chullo, and I needed one badly.
Strolling from market to market, I laid my eyes on this pink, poofy looking chullo that was so outrageous I knew I had to have it. But the lady selling it wanted 30 soles (10 dollars). It occurred to me that I'd be stuck with a pink knitted hat...forever.
So I chose this one instead:
The pink one would probably have been more stylish. Some say it would suit me better. But this one was 15 soles. And it has blue. I think I got the better hat, gracias.
With chullo in tow, I felt pretty good about myself. We walked down street after street, taking in the Andean sunshine, fending off persistent street vendors, inhaling that oh-so-thin Cusco air...
And then it hit.
Altitude sickness strikes within a few hours of arrival in Cusco. I had a dull headache for the whole day, but paid no attention to it. By 4 pm, my stomach had refused to cooperate. It's a weird feeling when you want to vomit but you can't. It sucks.
For two hours I lay in my hotel room, doing nothing but breathing. Deep breathing. Not the most exciting thing to do on your first day in Cusco, but for me it was necessary.
And it was a blessing. The typical first day in a new city is the time to pack everything in; To do so much in so little time. You can't do that in Cusco. Unless everyone decides to pack it all in and move 11,000 feet down to the sea, you have to take a deep breath, then another one, and then one more. Or else you'll flame out with a queasy stomach and throbbing headache. And that's no way to start a vacation.
I went to bed pretty early. But I was OK with that. I had a packed day tomorrow that included flying over the Sacred Valley.
To see more pics on our first day in Cusco, go to my flickr page here.
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