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Thursday, June 28, 2007

Don't Let Them Hurt Me

My friend Ames emailed me this piece of advice for our stay in Lima:

"kidnapping is a common thing so if you are taken, just give them your money and bag. they probably won't do anything else to you."

Wha??

OK, now I'm a bit scared. If you're reading this and you don't hear from me for a few weeks, now you know where I am. And if my captors try to call you, do whatever they ask of you. Don't let them hurt me, please.

Thanks.

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

To Cuy Or Not To Cuy?

So...this is what I came across this morning, via CBS News:

Peru just celebrated it second annual Festival of the Cuy. In case you're wondering, cuy is guinea pig.

"Zero cholesterol! Protein for anemia!" Teresa Figeroa shouted from under her woven, flower-lined hat. For 20 soles ($7), she sold plates of guinea pig fried, grilled, baked,even cuy au vin, with generous helpings of Andean potatoes and large Peruvian corn called choclo.




Yep. This is what they eat down there. And I hear they're delicious. So you can guess what I'm going to do when I get to Peru. I also hear alpaca tastes kinda like beef.

Faithful Travel



Insights on travel from my traveling guru, Rick Steves. I saw this video last year before my trip to Europe. It totally changed my way of thinking about hitting the road.

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Who You're With

Recently my friends and I have been emailing each other about our trip to Peru. Thanks to my travel buddies, I know what the weather will be like (70s in the day, a chilly 30 at night). I know the distances we're hiking each day (the hardest stretch will be climbing something called Dead Woman's Pass. This does not bode well). They've advised that I not wait to pack the same day as the flight. They've recommended me getting cash from my bank directly from the teller and not through the ATM.

Thanks to my friends, I was able to get my vaccines done in time (Screw you, typhoid!). Because of them, I know what type of pants to bring on the hike. I now know that thermal underwear might be a good idea. And cotton t-shirts might not be. My friends are thorough, prepared, and if it weren't for them, I'd be stuck in the Andes by myself with nobody around me but alpaca herders and their flocks. Or herds. Or whatever they're called in groups.

I'm very grateful for my friends. I'm the type of traveler that will cover the basics (wear a money belt, don't flash your bling all the time, etc.), but I totally goof up on the little things. Like what to wear. Or that I shouldn't drink the water right out of the tap (I'm kidding here, really).  I kinda like the idea of just showing up somewhere, armed with little more than a passport, a camera, and my wits, and seeing what happens. And that might be OK, if I were traveling to say...Santa Barbara. Peru? Maybe not.

That's why traveling is just as much who you're with as it is where you're going. I know my strengths and weaknesses when it comes to hitting the road, so I gravitate to people who complement those things. And by spending time with them, you find yourself growing in areas where you thought you were inadequate. And it goes both ways. We learn a little bit from each other as we take in God's majestic creation.

And it starts in one week.

Oh my.

Monday, June 25, 2007

She Ruined It For Me

From Yahoo:


Cameron Diaz apologized Sunday for carrying a bag with a political slogan that evoked painful memories in Peru.

The voice of Princess Fiona in the animated "Shrek" films visited the Incan city of Machu Picchu in Peru's Andes on Friday carrying an olive green bag emblazoned with a red star and the words "Serve the People" printed in Chinese, perhaps Chinese Communist leader Mao Zedong's most famous political slogan.

Great. Thanks to you, Cameron, that swanky new Mao bag that I bought at Spencer's Gifts is now useless to me. What the heck am I gonna bring to Peru now?? How am I gonna be a douchy American tourist with out my Mao bag??

I hope they're ok with my Fidel Casto hat. I ain't leaving that behind...

Monday, June 18, 2007

The Test Hike



I'm not much of a hiker. The thought of walking uphill over a long distance doesn't appeal to me. And yet, with Machu Picchu looming in the distance, I figured I needed a test hike; A hike to get me all psyched up for the Inca Trail; A hike to get me pumped, to get me excited.

Mt. Baldy did the exact opposite of that.

The Mt. Baldy hike is listed here as "strenuous". I guess that's because they can't use "Will-Kick-Your-Ass". Because that is exactly how I would describe it. This hike will kick your ass and make you hate life.

On a beautiful Saturday in Southern California, some old friends and I, in an effort to prepare ourselves for our leisurely stroll in the Andes, tackled this beast of a mountain. It took five hours to get to the top. It took about two more to finish the hike. We had to take a ski-lift down to our cars to complete the hike. The ski-lift was about as terrifying, if not more so, than the actual hike.

We covered a little less than eight miles (It would have been eleven without the ski-lift). We went up 4000 feet. I fell twice. Well, actually, I tripped over my shoelaces twice. This shouldn't surprise most of you. I can't even wear hiking boots right.


*Always looking up...*

I cramped up in both legs, my calves, and my hamstrings. The last mile leading up to the top was probably the most arduous thing I've ever done. And I'm not even exaggerating. I would walk five paces and rest for thirty seconds. Meanwhile, old ladies and little children would pass me. I was humbled.

But when I reached the summit, the very last in my group, I couldn't help but feel a little triumphant.


*At 10,000 feet*

Five seconds after this picture, I collapsed in a heap. Thirty seconds after that, we were on our way down the Devil's Backbone to the ski-lifts. I'm always weary about walking down a trail named after a body part of the Prince of Darkness. And yes, this is where I tripped twice. And no, they don't put safety railings on these trails.

This hike was painful. But it was very necessary. There's some satisfaction gained from knowing that you went to the top of a mountain. I have a better understanding of what Machu Picchu will be like. I'm on my way to having quads of steel.  Plus, at the end of the hike, you can eat whatever you want because you've burned a gazillion calories.

Which is why I ended my day with an Eclair Cream Puff from Beard Papa in Arcadia.

       

So am I excited for Machu Picchu? Hell no, I'm terrified. I can't imagine hiking something like this at a higher elevation AND over the course of four days.

Thanks, Mt. Baldy. Thanks a lot.



(More pics can be found here.)

Saturday, June 9, 2007

Europe Trip 2006 - A Look Back

To prepare for Machu Picchu, I'm reposting my entries on my personal blog from a year ago on my trip to Europe.


Part One: "My God, I'm in Europe!"



(Snapshot: Outside Knightsbridge Station, across the street from Harrod's. An Indian family is on my right chatting about who knows what. A couple of college students from the U.S. reluctantly approach passersby, asking them to fill out a survey for class. We instantly strike up a conversation with them. They tell us about Amsterdam, saying "The whole place smells like pot." My heart skips a beat. I decide to bust out the iPod. I choose the title track to Blur's "Parklife", the quintessential London album. As I bounce along to Damon Albarn, I reflect on my time in London town...)


The first day in London, I met Big Ben. He's gigantic. As I came out of the Westminster Tube station, the first thing I saw was good ol' Ben. And it's a this point where I realized, "My God, I'm in Europe!"




On our first day in London, we went on the London Eye (this huge ferris wheel type contraption which allows to see London in all its drab and gloomy splendor), saw a show (Footloose. Good stuff...), and flipped out at how expensive everything was. Actually, there was a lot of flipping out throughout our time in London. Just browse through Harrod's, which I guess is their version of Macy's, or something like that. The prices seem reasonable, until you realize that the pound is worth like 500 times more than the dollar. I did purchase a stylish looking bookmark with the letter E engraved in it, and 6 pieces of rolled Turkish Delight. I think their combined value was $300. But I'm guessing.

...I'm also kidding...

Day Two was spent doing typically touristy things on a double decker tour bus. We saw more of Big Ben and Parliment, and visions of National Lampoon's European Vacation, one of my favorite movies growing up, danced in my head. Our tour guide even referenced the movie!

We went inside Westminster Abbey, saw London Bridge, visited Buckingham Palace (sadly, the Queen was NOT available for a visit). We went down Picadilly's Circus, Trafalgar Square, and various other landmarks. We took tons and tons and TONS of pictures.

(TMI ALERT!!!! The next pic will either make you LOL, or throw up in your mouth. Don't say I didn't warn you...)

(Ready? Let's continue...)

And of all the pictures we took, this is my favorite one:




Yes, my favorite memory of London is squatting over a pile of horse dung. For the record, everyone thought this was a good idea, and I was only one foolish enough to pose. For all I know, those are the Queen's horses that left that pile of crap there, and by mocking the Royal Horse Dung, I may have committed a terrible offense, thus barring me from the United Kingdom forever. Ahh, but what a way to go!!

The third day gave us a pleasant suprise (no no no, I don't mean more horse crap.) Turns out there was a soccer stadium close to our hotel, so we checked it out. It also turns out that the team that plays there is Chelsea, two-time defending English Premier League Champions. It also turns out that Chelsea is my favorite English soccer team. Why, you ask? Because they wear the color blue, and I like the color blue. That's it. Seriously.

So I was expecting to take pictures of the stadium and that would be it. We ended up getting a full tour of the stadium, the press room, the locker rooms, the actual soccer field, and the Chelsea Museum. Talk about getting more than you expected! We were also blessed with a wonderful tour guide. I think his name was Mark. But he called himself Elvis. I really don't know why, because he looked NOTHING like Elvis. I guess he called himself Elvis because he had long sideburns. Shoot, if that's all you need to call yourself Elvis, then call me ElvisBruin. But I digress...



*Look at the BLUE!*

And just like that, our three days in London were up and we all boarded the Eurostar to Paris. London is a wonderful city, bustling with life, rich in diversity and history. It also costs an arm, a leg, and who knows what other appendages, to buy simple things like...a Big Mac.

Fun times indeed.

Part Two: "How Many Shots of That Thing Do We Need?"





(Snapshot: The Eiffel Tower on an overcast and drizzly late afternoon. Upon seeing it for the first time, like Big Ben's Clock Tower in London, I am overcome with the realization that yes, we're in Europe. But more importantly, we're in The City Of Lights. Romance Central. Gay Paris. Tourists pose in front of Paris' most notable monument. The Gang and I are no exception. As I ponder why this landmark suits the French well, I meditate on the beauty of this wonderful city...)

Coming into Europe Trip, I only wanted to do three things in Paris. One, see the Eiffel Tower. Two, visit the Louvre. And three, sit outside a Cafe while pretending to be French.

Our first day was dominated by The Phallus (I'm calling it that from now on. Feel free to sub in "Eiffel Tower" accordingly). The Gang and I took pictures of it from all angles. Why? I don't know. I mean, how many shots of that thing do we need? But you have to admit, there is something mesmerizing about it. Maybe it's cause it's so famous. Or maybe it's cause it resembles something that makes us giggle like schoolboys and schoolgirls. And you wonder why French guys are so, ahem, romantic.

Day two, God blessed us with a near perfect day, weather-wise. Hardly a cloud in the sky, it was a great day to take a tour boat down the River Seine to see Paris in all its splendor. The Louvre, Notre Dame Cathedral, The Orsay, The Phallus, and countless others. And the history of each landmark told in no less than five languages. Sadly, no tagalog.



*Do you see a running theme here...?*

As we sailed down the River Seine, I couldn't help but notice how BEAUTIFUL Paris is. From the architecture, to the landscaping, to the cute little streets that wind this way and that, this city is gorgeous. I recommend Paris to anyone, and more so if you have a special someone to bring with you...

This cruise (at a cost of 8 Euro, was quite the steal), was followed by a trek to the world famous Louvre, where I was dumbstruck by beauty. Not by the Mona Lisa, nor Venus Di Milo, but by this stunning Asian woman who served at the Sandwich Shop within the Museum. Sadly, I didn't take a picture. But I'll tell you, I nearly melted when she spoke in her delightful French accent. Unfortunately, I was served by the totally unattractive French-speaking Asian guy standing next to her.

But going back to the Louvre. It's friggin' huge. Not only that, it's hot, stuffy and crowded. I tried following an audio tour that I downloaded from The Traveling Guru himself, Rick Steves. Sadly, the people at the Louvre must have known, because they switched a bunch of the exhibits around, rendering the audio tour a ball of confusion. One thing they didn't switch was The Grand Galerie, headlined by that mysterious Mona Lisa, which is where nearly everyone flocks to upon entering. Mona Lisa isn't anything particularly special. You kind of have to study it for some time to grasp it's beauty, so Rick says. I guess he has a point. However, I didn't have time for an art lecture, so I left. Oh, and if you didn't know, you can't take pictures of the Mona Lisa, but you can take pictures of Venus Di Milo, so...



*Artistic or scandalous? You decide...*

Day three was spent touring Le Musee D'Orsay, which houses Impressionist paintings by Monet, Manet and Van Gogh. The Gang LOVED the Orsay, compared to the crowded and stuffy Louvre. This was followed by strolling down the Champs D'Elysses, a must for tourists, if only for the people-watching and shopping. But all I wanted to do on this last day in Paris was the last thing on my list; Sit at a Cafe and pretend to be French. And by that I mean, sit by myself, sip a cappuccino, and glare at passersby with equal parts indifference and disdain. I did manage to sit at a Cafe, except it wasn't really a Cafe...



And I didn't really sip a cappuccino...



Next thing I knew, our time in Paris was up, and we boarded the train to Amsterdam. But unlike Paris, where I wanted to do three things, there was only one thing I wanted to do in Amsterdam...

Part Three: "What's in a Space Cake?"





(Snapshot: The Bulldog Cafe on the Leidesplein. The Bulldog is one Amsterdam's most recognizable coffeshops. It is our last full day in Europe before getting on the plane back home. To celebrate, I enter the Bulldog and order three Space Cakes; one for me, and two for the rest of the gang. As I wolf down my space cake, I think back a couple days before to the first time I walked in The Bulldog; as a naive American tourist with visions of brownies dancing in my head...)

"Excuse me?" I sheepishly ask the bartender, "What's in a Space Cake?"

"What did you come to this country for?" He instantly replies, as if he's heard this question from thousands of inquisitive tourists before. "Did you come for tulips and canals, that sort of thing?"

I'm confused as how to respond to this, so I slowly nod my head. "Not drugs, then? Well, I guess I can't help you..." He turns to the next customer, and this is the point where I realize that if I don't do anything now, my chance will slip away.

"I came here for POT!" I blurt out. The bartender turns back to me and grins, as if I've said the magic word. "There you go! That'll be 6 Euro." He hands me a prewrapped Space Cake, which contains 0.2 grams of "Zero Zero", which I guess is their fancy name for weed. The cake, which kinda looks like a muffin, comes with a small slip of paper, saying that Space Cake should be eaten with caution, and that it is advised that those who aren't familiar with pot should not eat Space Cake. As I read this, I'm nearly done consuming my 6-Euro treat.



The slip of paper also says that it takes 30 minutes for the effects to kick in. So I wait. I didn't know what to expect. Would I laugh uncontrollably? Would I have a moment of clarity? The only thing that happened was that I got really really thirsty. And I had the munchies. And I was a little tired. Aside from all that, nothing much happened.

The next Space Cake, however, knocked me right out. So did the next two. Don't worry, I didn't have them all at once. I had one per day, except on the last day, when I had two.

Such is life here in Amsterdam, where the smell of pot indeed fills the air. The Bulldog is one of many (and I do mean many) "Coffeeshops" in this charming city. Yes, they actually do sell coffee and tea, but they also have a Cannabis menu. Obviously, these coffeeshops attract all sorts of people. But then again, who ISN'T drawn to Amsterdam?

Amsterdam has two sides; the charming side, with the beautful canals and architecture, the art muesums, and such. And then there's the seedy side, primarily consisting of the Red Light District. The Red Light is pretty much everything you'd expect. Half naked girls of all races and types (and some might not even be girls) are confined in glass booths illuminated by a flourescent red light, using their talents to lure horny guys of all races and types. It's almost as if these girls aren't real. Until you try to take of picture of them, then they fling open the door and yell out, "HEY! DO YOU WANNA SWING?!" That usually drives the photographers away.

Lest you think that all our time was spent in the seedy side of Amsterdam, getting stoned and looking at prostitutes, here of some attractions from its charming side to definitely check out:

- The Anne Frank House: One of the must-see attractions. The actual house where Anne Frank and seven other people hid from the Nazis for two years is now a walk-thru museum. Lines are HUGE, but we got there fairly early.

- Canal Boat Ride: This is great way to tour Amsterdam. Grab a pedal boat, and navigate your way down the canals. Although it can be terrifying when you face oncoming boat traffic. Also, try not to get lost. Unless your calves need a workout.

- Van Gogh Museum/Rijksmuseum: Two wonderful museums full of Dutch Art. Especially worth checking out is Van Gogh.

- Fries stands: I LOVE the fries in Amsterdam; More than the fries are the numerous sauces that you can dip the fries in. Although I found the regular "Frite Sauce" tasty, everyone else thought it was kinda gross. Oh well. But this is my favorite Fries stand in all of Amsterdam:



That's right, it's my good friend Manneken Pis! You can imagine how elated I was to find this. But seriously, the fries here are great, as well as the 21(!) different sauces to choose from.

- The Heineken Experience: Lastly, if you're ever in Amsterdam, The Heineken Experience is worth checking out. For 10 Euro, you get a tour of a Heineken Brewery, as well as taking part in several interactive games (like making your own Dutch Karaoke Video. Trust me, it's AWESOME), also you get three glasses of beer (or soda, if you prefer.)



I prefer beer.

And just like that, our trip was over. We boarded the plane for the long long (LONG) flight back home. It was definitely an eye-opening experience, full of lessons learned and other observations, which I'll get to in the near future.

But just remember; in Amsterdam, don't be afraid to ask for the Space Cake. Ask with confidence, and enjoy...


And now, I'm ready for Peru...